Georgina’s Makeover

Georgina is a 7.5” tall antique wax-over paper mache doll with glass eyes. Her arms and legs are carved from wood. But her most amazing feature is her feet, which look a lot like Hitty’s and Kitty’s. It’s my guess that all three dolls were made around the same time, since the style is so similar. I named her Georgina after Georgina Hogarth, sister-in-law of Charles Dickens and Mekitty’s Great Aunt.

Restoring Georgina

When I purchased Georgina on ebay, she was in frightful condition. The area surrounding her glass eyes had lost its coating of plaster, resulting in a scary, wide-eyed look. Her face was dirty, and she had a blotchy pink complexion. Originally, her head would have been dipped in wax, but none remained.

Her cloth body was leaking stuffing in multiple places, and her arms were about ready to fall off. All her clothing appeared to be hand sewn by a child, and most of it was in a very sad state. Her cotton underwear had darkened with age and dirt. The dark brown velvet skirt, embellished with red embroidery stitches, was in fair shape. But her black silk overskirt was shredding.

*Antique shredded silk overskirt with red embroidery*

With all of these problems, I decided to set Georgina aside until I could figure out a way to restore her. I turned my attention to a new project (see Virtual Kitty). Once I realized that Kitty needed her own restoration, I thought that I could practice some techniques on Georgina first, giving me the confidence I needed for Kitty’s makeover.

I didn’t believe that Georgina was a particularly rare doll, and she certainly wasn’t in good condition. I would not have attempted something this drastic if she had been in better shape. But given her awful appearance, anything I could do to make her prettier and less fragile would be a good thing!

Apoxi-Sculpt

To repair and fill the paper mache, I used a two-part epoxy sculpting compound called Apoxi-Sculpt. It feels soft like clay at first and hardens slowly. While the mixture is still soft, water can be used for smoothing. After 24 hours, the surface can be sanded and carved. Apoxi-sculpt comes in two separate tubs. I scooped out a small amount from each container. (Note: Always use different tools to retrieve the material so it doesn’t get contaminated.) While wearing vinyl gloves, I kneaded the two materials together until fully blended, to activate the epoxy clay.

Georgina’s paper mache shoulderhead was already loose, so I removed it from the body. I pinched off a small amount of the clay and smoothed it over the rough patches on the doll’s shoulderhead. I also put some around her eyes and forehead. The eyelids required a couple layers of the filler, followed by a bit of carving and some sanding. When I was finally done, I felt a sense of satisfaction that she no longer had such a scary face.

*Apoxi-Sculpt applied to face and shoulders*

Painting

Now Georgina was ready for painting. I decided to use gouache and acrylic paints for the restoration because they dry quickly. One thing to keep in mind about restoring an antique doll is that you don’t want the paint to look too “new.” I applied multiple thin layers in slightly different tones, then sanded carefully through the layers. This aging technique left a mottled surface with a complex blending of colors.

*Applying layers of color with distressing technique*

Next, I applied a solid layer of acrylic paint to cover up the base layer, making a nice skin tone. Adding some matte medium to the paint helped the color flow smoothly. I painted her cheeks, lips and the tiny red dots in the nose. I also painted over her glass eyes to protect them during the next step.

I sprayed the finished head with a clear acrylic sealer called, “Mr. Super Clear.” (Caution: Mr. Super Clear has a strong odor and must be used outdoors, with a respirator.) Mr. Super Clear seals the paint prior to the antiquing process. Antiquing will darken the paint overall and add depth to the face. My antiquing recipe: “Americana Gel Stains – Oak” craft paint mixed with a little burnt umber and matte medium, brushed all over the head. Within a few seconds, I wiped it off again with a rag made from a cotton t-shirt. I added extra shading around her eyes to make them pop. Using a burnt umber color, diluted with matte medium, I painted her eyebrows. Then I removed the paint protecting her eyes. Acrylic doesn’t stick to glass, so a little scraping did the trick. Georgina looked much better now, and I am sure she was relieved to be able to see again!

One more step was needed… a sealer. The original doll was sealed with shellac, a natural secretion made by insects, dissolved in alcohol. I purchased Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac and diluted it by putting a small amount in a glass jar and adding an equal amount of denatured alcohol. I stirred it well before using and I applied two coats of shellac using a foam brush. The second coat will dissolve into the first, making a nice smooth finish and giving the doll’s skin the perfect warm tone with a slight shine.

Repairing the Body

I discovered an old repair near her crotch which someone had tried to sew closed, but it was still leaking stuffing. I patched it using strips of khaki-colored 100% cotton fabric glued over the worn areas. Her legs were in pretty good shape, so I left them alone.

I cut a rectangular section of the cotton fabric to fit around the top of her body. I glued it in place with Aleene’s Tacky glue in order to seal all the leaks and to strengthen the fabric. Then I sewed the opening closed to hold in the stuffing.

Her arms were attached with a very fragile gauze fabric, and they were way too short in proportion to the rest of the body. I carefully removed the gauze fabric. I used more of the khaki cotton fabric to make a tube, then inserted the wooden arms and glued them in place. When I reattached the arms to the body, I made them longer than they were before. No more tiny T. rex arms! Finally, I glued her head back onto the body and signed the back to note the date of restoration.

Clothing

Georgina could keep her dark brown velvet skirt, with its charming hand embroidery. But I decided not to use the shredded silk overskirt. I kept it, along with her original chemise, which was too fragile to put back on her. I carefully washed her cotton petticoat and pantalets using diluted dishwashing liquid, changing the water and soaking repeatedly. Then I patted the underwear dry with a towel. It didn’t remove all the stains, but at least it was clean.

Next, I needed to make clothing to go with the skirt. Since A Tale of Two Hittys is set in 1868, I thought that a paletot would be perfect for her (see The Dickens Dresses). I found a dark sprig print, purchased from Reproduction Fabrics, that would work nicely. Although their website is a bit hard to navigate, they have a lovely selection of antique printed fabrics. The print I chose is from their “Pheasants and Traceries,” collection, dated 1825-1865. I enlarged Kitty’s paletot pattern to fit Georgina. For closures, I added button loops and black buttons.

A new lacy cap covers her somewhat sparse original hair. It’s the perfect finishing touch!

Where was Georgina made?

Georgina’s body was stuffed with a dried plant matter, called “excelsior” or wood wool. The excelsior stuffing is a clue that the doll was probably made in an area with abundant forests, such as the Sonneberg region of Germany. Sonneberg was a town located on the edge of the Thuringian forest, an area which had a long history of toy and doll-making.

When was Georgina made?

Hairstyles can help date dolls like Georgina, because hairstyles usually change along with the fashions. Georgina has soft brown hair, possibly mohair, glued onto a crown-shaped bump, which gives her hair extra height. I think that her tall hairstyle indicates that she could be from the mid-1870s. Around this time, the hairstyles started to get higher, sometimes using added curls and hairpieces. Georgina’s hair looks a lot like these styles from the year 1876. Could this be when Kitty was made as well? It certainly is a mystery worth exploring.